The Mortar, Pestle and Gestures
The Mortar: Heart of the Pesto Tradition
In the traditional preparation of pesto, the mortar is a fundamental tool. Used to extract essential oils and prepare all cold sauces, the mortar is made of various materials, including alabaster, hard stone, marble, iron, silver, copper, wood, terracotta, ceramic, glass and bronze. The choice of material depends on the properties of the materials to be processed, their consistency, the degrees of acidity and the particular composition to be created.
The History of the Mortar in the Kitchen
The mortar is an object that alone could tell the story of cuisines, of the most archaic foods, of seeds and herbs crushed to make condiments to accompany various preparations. The mortar for making pesto is typically made of marble, coming from the Apuan Alps in the Carrara area, in particular in the hamlet of Stazzema di Levigliani (Lu).
Types of Mortars
At least three different types of mortar are made in the laboratories:
1. The “Bergamasco” Mortar: With a cup-shaped, perfectly circular shape, with a hemispherical body.
2. The “Marseillaise” Mortar: Similar to the Genoese, but with different dimensions and a semi-elliptical body, rather sharp and higher.
3. The “Genovese” Mortar: Equipped with a circular mouth with four external ears, and a swinging part with an elliptical section.
Pestle: Companion to the Mortar
The pestle must have a shape capable of making best use of the mortar in which he will have to work. Its shape connects with the processing recess, and the material must be suitable for the specific use. The classic pestle in Liguria is obtained from the essence of a wild fruit tree, often pear or plum, and sometimes hammerwood (boxwood). Beech is the most common wood for pestles, but olive is also widely used. These woods are also used for knife handles, various tools and popular musical instruments, especially wind instruments.
The Mortar: Tool of Ancient Culinary Traditions
The mortar is a tool that belongs to the sources of culinary practice, used by ancient peoples to transform seeds into flour, before other grinding techniques were perfected. Traditional cuisine is not only made up of local products and preparations, but also of gestures. The use of the mortar is one of the most representative, a tradition that continues to live in modern kitchens, preserving the link with the culinary roots of the past.
Sources
Viarengo G., “L’Albero della Cuccagna. Paesaggio, alimentazione e cucina nella Liguria di Levante”, Chiavari, Internòs, 2023
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