For centuries, the chestnut has been a true pillar of rural life in our area, nourishing and supporting local populations. Today, its glorious past is reflected in the solitary abandonment of the chestnut woods, but fortunately, some small enclaves continue its production, thus preserving the traditional cuisine and its gastronomic treasures.
We owe to these heirs of peasant culture the survival of a precious bread, which has its roots in the chestnuts hanging from the trees. Panêla was prepared with chestnut flour, a mixture of water, chestnut flour and a little oil. This delicacy offers an infinite number of variations, enriched with ingredients such as rosemary, wild fennel, raisins and pine nuts.
Chestnut flour, versatile and tasty, was used to prepare a wide range of traditional dishes. Among these, martìn bread, soft and with a sweetish taste, made with a mixture of chestnut and wheat flour. It was also possible to prepare pasta such as trofie, mandilli and battolli, which brought the authentic flavors of tradition to the table.
Fresh or dried chestnuts offered many culinary possibilities: they could be cooked with pork rinds and other less valuable parts of the beast to obtain one of the many versions of fatty chestnuts. Furthermore, they were consumed in different ways, boiled with the peel (baléti), boiled without the peel (pe-e), cooked in water and milk (prebugìe) or roasted on a special pan with holes (rustìe).
Every dish and every chestnut-based preparation tells a story of tradition, ingenuity and authentic flavour. Preserving these ancient culinary practices means not only keeping the memory of our peasant roots alive, but also savoring a piece of history nestled in the unique taste of the chestnuts of our territory.
Viarengo G., “L’Albero della Cuccagna. Paesaggio, alimentazione e cucina nella Liguria di Levante”, Chiavari, Internòs, 2023
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