Cabbage has enjoyed centuries-old success in the Tigullio countryside, as evidenced by the documentation of the Agrarian Comitium of Chiavari. This versatile vegetable has been interpreted in different culinary variations, earning a place of honor in traditional local recipes.
The gaggetta, a sort of cage formed from cabbage leaves, is grown specifically to be cooked stuffed. This particular type of cabbage is most widely cultivated in the vegetable gardens of Chiavari, in the Entella plain and in the hills of Lavagna.
The filling of the gaggetta is rich and tasty, composed of:
Bread soaked in milk
Garlic
Parmesan and pecorino cheese
Egg
Slices of mortadella
The inevitable loss (marjoram)
Once filled with the filling, the gaggetta is prepared arranged. This means that it is cooked over low heat in a large pot with a lid. The pot is prepared with:
A drizzle of extra virgin olive oil
A chopped Zerli onion, carrot and celery
A base of tomato puree
This dish demonstrates how a simple cabbage can become a protagonist in the culinary art of the Tigullio land. The gaggetta, with its rich filling and slow and delicate cooking, perfectly represents the ability of Ligurian cuisine to transform simple ingredients into real delicacies.
The history of cabbage in the Tigullio countryside is an example of how agricultural and culinary traditions have evolved together, keeping alive the connection with the land and with the recipes of the past. The gaggetta, in particular, embodies the simplicity and richness of Ligurian cuisine, offering a dish that is both rustic and refined, perfect for warming up winter evenings with its enveloping flavour.
Viarengo G., “L’Albero della Cuccagna. Paesaggio, alimentazione e cucina nella Liguria di Levante”, Chiavari, Internòs, 2023
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