The vineyard, in the Ligurian maritime hills, is a symbol of tradition and agricultural ingenuity. The “carassa”, a dialect term derived from the ancient Greek “karas”, indicated the vineyard pole. Archaeologists have identified one of the oldest vineyards in the Marseille area, from where viticulture spread to Europe. This term has traveled with the wine culture, becoming “carasa” in Monferrato, “carasso” in Alessandria, “skaras” in Milan, “skaratso” in Treviso and “karras” in Valtellina.
The dead support* such as the chestnut carcass typical of Tigullio, represents an evolution compared to the married vine, where the vine grows on a tree, a technique that favored neither the tree nor the vine itself. In some areas of Fontanabuona, the carassa could also be made of slate.
The Tigullio vineyards create a unique landscape architecture, with thousands of carasses and dry stone walls supporting the minimum amount of soil for the vines. After the construction of the dry stone walls, the farmers placed the poles, pruned the vines and tied the branches, perpetuating ancient gestures. In the Bulletin of the Agricultural Comitium of 1868, the most widespread vine species are reported: “albarola” in Lavagna, “Temosci” in Rapallo and many other local varieties.
The production of wine in Tigullio followed precise practices:
Crushing: The grapes were pressed and the liquid obtained, without the stems, was left to boil. Subsequently, the clarified wine was decanted, an operation carried out in January.
Mashing: The must rested in the vat for 12-20 days before pressing.
During the spring, work in the vineyards included arranging the shoots and lightening the foliage to encourage the ripening of the grapes. After the September harvest, the delicate processing of the harvest in the cellars began.
The wine production process was complex and refined and involved:
Drywall engineering to contain the soil.
Geometric arrangement of the rows to optimize cultivation.
Pressing of the grapes and conservation in barrels.
Viticulture in Tigullio is an example of how tradition and innovation can coexist. Through the use of ancient techniques and specific equipment, Tigullio winemakers have created a unique landscape and high-quality wine production, which continues to represent an essential part of the region’s culture and economy.
Viarengo G., “L’Albero della Cuccagna. Paesaggio, alimentazione e cucina nella Liguria di Levante”, Chiavari, Internòs, 2023
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